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Off the Rack

Judging our elected emperors by their clothes

“Dyspepsiana” Illinois Times 
March 10, 2016

Usually when one is talking about Illinois governors and someone brings up cuffs, you know what they mean. But in this piece I was talking about attire, not arrests. Not many people know this, but I began my writing career as a fashion critic. In my high school yearbook I described the pink and purple madras shorts worn by one of my intramural basketball teammates. Those shorts had a lot to do with our winning the school championship that year, since they had the same effect on defenders that flashing lights have on some epileptics. It was on the court that I learned then how important clothes are to a man. 

We’ve had chief executives who preferred casual clothes—Jim Edgar comes to mind—but Bruce Rauner preferred what I call casualty clothes, because he looks likes a guy pulled from a boat accident who was dressed in whatever the crew could spare.

Some readers will dismiss my complaints as trivial, even mean. Trust me, I’m not criticizin,’ I’m just observin.’ If I wanted to insult Rauner, I would have talked about his policies, which he also bought off the rack, apparently, at the American Legislative Exchange Council outlet store.

See also “Eggheads” for more about Illinois politicians’ uncertain mastery of the arts of self-presentation.

 

I took in two things during lunch the other day. One was bean soup. The other was Goethe’s observation that the nobleman “tells us everything through the person he presents, but . . . the burgher simply is, and when he tries to put on an appearance, the effect is ludicrous or in bad taste.” Which is kind of what’s been naggin’ me for months about our Mr. Rauner. Not that he has proven to be an emperor with no clothes, but that they are the wrong clothes.

During the campaign much was made of his outfits. One must forgive a candidate a certain laxity on the campaign trail; no potential voter likes being harangued by an office-seeker who looks like the guy at the bank who turned down his mortgage application. But what is good enough for a gubernatorial candidate is not good enough for a governor. His wardrobe needs a turnaround agenda. Rauner often shows up at official events outside the Statehouse looking like a guy who owns six shirts on the seventh day since he did laundry. (He’s a six-foot-four man whose jeans are six foot eleven.)


The problem of how leaders should dress has been much vexed. According to Shakespeare, it came up in Denmark several hundred years ago.


Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy,
But not expressed in fancy—rich, not gaudy,
For the apparel oft proclaims the man. . . ”


So said Polonius, chief counselor to Hamlet. Rauner has his own Polonius, in the persons of his wife and lieutenant governor Eleanor Sanguinetti. Both advise the king against his choice of clothes, apparently in the manner of mom telling a nine-year-old, “You can’t wear that to school!” It seems to have had some effect. Now when he appears for ceremonial occasions in the statehouse, Rauner appears in a nice suit. Outside the statehouse, he still tends to show up at even official functions tie-less, not having noticed apparently that he looks like an accountant trying to be one of the guys.  

Why should we care? For the same reason Goethe did. His nobleman represents not merely himself but the ancient order of rank and privilege of his society. In a democratic society, the people possess the power to elevate even schlubs into our aristocracy of public power. The campaigns to pick whom to ennoble are almost always about presentation, the job of the campaign strategists and his media minions being to invent a self for the candidate to present.

 

You would think that everyone but Fox News viewers knew this by now. Much of Mr. Trump’s appeal lies in his seeming to be his own true self. Americans always fall for this gag—they’re like a kid who never figures out that it’s just dad inside the Santa suit. It was widely assumed that Rauner’s campaign self was so contrived.


However, clothes and the way they wear them tend to reveal the true person eventually. If Life had had a better HR department, Pat Quinn would have been an instructor at community college. At Chicago State University in 2014, President Obama lauded the famously rumpled Quinn as a man who did not devote his life to, ahem, making a lot of money. Certainly his style of dress says “absent-minded professor.” Said Obama, “You can see when you see Pat—you know he’s not spending money on his wardrobe . . . I was backstage with his staff, you know, and they were, like, trying to iron out like a little—he already had wrinkles on his—they said, we just had that dry-cleaned.” [Laughter] So Quinn and suits are not a natural fit either. But he wore them anyway as governor. That’s the thing about liberals—they at least try to do the right thing.

Quinn, said Obama, is “not trying to pretend to be something he’s not.” But neither is Rauner pretending, we now are told. Those who know him say that this proud Son of Winnetka (median household income $203,995) really is a hick. Which brings me to the lesson of this week’s sermon. In a January interview with Rich Miller, Rauner said that he had been unable to wear what he wanted when he was a businessman because nobody would want to do business with him, but that he now feels “free” to be himself since he was elected. “Now,” Miller wrote in his February 4 column in Crain’s Chicago Business, “he just wants to be himself, and that means droppin’ his Gs and doin’ other stuff like wearin’ the clothes he likes, not the clothes others expect him to don.”

Sorry, Bruce. A governor of a great state is not free to be himself. He does not merely work for the people of the state, he represents them and the office they gave him. If he doesn’t feel obligated to dress up a little out of respect for them or for the office, he might find that few people will want to do business with him as governor either. ●

SITES

OF

INTEREST

John Hallwas

Essential for anyone interested in Illinois history and literature. Hallwas deservedly won the 2018 Lifetime Achievement Award from the Illinois State Historical Society.

Lee Sandlin Author

One of Illinois’s best, and least-known, writers of his generation. Take note in particular of The Distancers and Road to Nowhere.

Chicago Architecture Center

See Home Page/Learn/

Resources for a marvelous building database, architecture dictionary, even a city planning graphic novel. Handsome, useful—every Illinois culture website should be so good.

The Encyclopedia of Chicago

 

The online version of The Encyclopedia of Chicago. Crammed with thousands of topic entries, biographical sketches, maps and images, it is a reference work unmatched in Illinois.

Illinois Great Places

The Illinois chapter of the American Institute of Architects in 2018 selected 200 Great Places in Illinois that illustrate our  shared architectural culture across the entire period of human settlement in Illinois.

McLean County Museum

of History

A nationally accredited, award-winning project of the McLean County Historical Society whose holdings include more than 20,000 objects, more than 15,000 books on local history and genealogy, and boxes and boxes of historical papers and images.

Mr. Lincoln, Route 66, and Other Highlights of Lincoln, Illinois

 

Every Illinois town ought to have a chronicler like D. Leigh Henson, Ph.D. Not only Lincoln and the Mother road—the author’s curiosity ranges from cattle baron John Dean Gillett to novelist William Maxwell. An Illinois State Historical Society "Best Web Site of the Year."

Illinois Digital Archives

 

Created in 2000, the IDA is a repository for the digital collections of the Illinois State Library and other Illinois libraries and cultural institutions. The holdings include photographs, slides, and glass negatives, oral histories, newspapers, maps, and documents from manuscripts and letters to postcards,  posters, and videos.

The Illinois State Museum

 

The people's museum is a treasure house of science and the arts. A research institution of national reputation, the museum maintains four facilities across the state. Their collections in anthropology, fine and decorative arts, botany, zoology, geology, and  history are described here. A few museum publications can be obtained here.

Chronicling Illinois

“Chronicling Illinois” showcases some of the collections—mostly some 6,000 photographs—from the Illinois history holdings of the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library.

Chicagology

I will leave it to the authors of this interesting site to describe it. "Chicagology is a study of Chicago history with a focus on the period prior to the Second World War. The purpose of the site is to document common and not so common stories about the City of Chicago as they are discovered." 

Illinois Labor History Society

The Illinois Labor History Society seeks to encourage the preservation and study of labor history materials of the Illinois region, and to arouse public interest in the profound significance of the past to the present. Offers books reviews, podcasts, research guides, and the like. 

Illinois Migration History 1850-2017

The University of Washington’s America’s Great Migrations Project has compiled migration histories  (mostly from the published and unpublished work by UW Professor of History James Gregory) for several states, including Illinois. The site also includes maps and charts and essays about the Great Migration of African Americans to the north, in which Illinois figured importantly. 

History on the Fox

An interesting resource about the history of one of Illinois’s more interesting places, the Fox Valley of Kendall County. History on the Fox is the work of Roger Matile, an amateur historian of the best sort. Matile’s site is a couple of cuts above the typical buff’s blog. (An entry on the French attempt to cash in on the trade in bison pelts runs more than

2,000 words.)

BOOKS

 OF INTEREST

SIUPromoCoverPic.jpg

Southern Illinois University Press 2017

A work of solid history, entertainingly told.

Michael Burlingame,

author of Abraham 

Lincoln: A Life 

One of the ten best books on Illinois history I have read in a decade.

Superior Achievement Award citation, ISHS Awards, 2018

A lively and engaging study . . .  an enthralling narrative.

James Edstrom

The Annals of Iowa

A book that merits the attention of all Illinois historians

as well as local historians generally.

John Hoffman

Journal of Illinois HIstory

A model for the kind of detailed and honest history other states and regions could use.

Harold Henderson 

Midwestern Microhistory

A fine example of a resurgence of Midwest historical scholarship.

Greg Hall

Journal of the Illinois

State Historical Society

Click  here 

to read about

the book 

Click  here 

to buy the book 

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Southern Illinois University Press

SIU Press is one of the four major university publishing houses in Illinois. Its catalog offers much of local interest, including biographies of Illinois political figures, the history (human and natural) and folklore of southern Illinois, the Civil War and Lincoln, and quality reprints in the Shawnee Classics series.

University of

Illinois Press

The U of I Press was founded in 1918. A search of the online catalog  (Books/Browse by subject/Illinois) will reveal more than 150 Illinois titles, books on history mostly but also butteflies, nature , painting, poetry and fiction, and more.  Of particular note are its Prairie State Books,  quality new paperback editions of worthy titles about all parts of Illinois, augmented with scholarly introductions.

University of

Chicago Press

The U of C publishing operation is the oldest (1891) and largest university press in Illinois. Its reach is international, but it has not neglected its own neighborhood. Any good Illinois library will include dozens of titles about Chicago and Illinois from Fort Dearborn to

Vivian Maier.

Northern Illinois University Press

The newest (1965) and the smallest of the university presses with an interest in Illinois, Northern Illinois University Press gave us important titles such as the standard one-volume history of the state (Biles' Illinois:
A History of the Land and Its People) and contributions to the history of Chicago, Illinois transportation, and the Civil War. Now an imprint of Cornell University Press.

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Reviews and significant mentions by James Krohe Jr. of more than 50 Illinois books, arranged in alphabetical order

by book title. 

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Illinois Center for the Book

Run by the Illinois State Library, The Center promotes reading, writing and author programs meant to honor the state's rich literary heritage. An affiliate of the Library of Congress’s Center for the Book, the site offers award competitions, a directory of Illinois authors, literary landmarks, and reading programs.

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