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Spring, when the crocus and the tourist bloom

Illinois Times

April 8, 1977

With this column I struck the first chords in what would be a four-decade symphony of complaint about what tourists do to Springfield—and what Springfield does to tourists. It fell on deaf ears. I was reconciled by the realization that tourists and Springfield deserve each other.

Spring is that time of year when the crocus and the tourist bloom. Since 1865, Springfield has made a handsome living catering to the needs of the unsuspecting millions who've trekked to the Illinois capital to rub elbows, figuratively speaking, with Abraham Lincoln.


They come from all the world—from New Delhi, Bologna, even the remoter reaches of Manhattan. And they are easy to spot. One giveaway is the pained expression they tend to wear, usually the result of their not knowing for sure exactly where they are. (Natives often have the same expression, but in their case it's because they do know where they are.) Tourist dress, too, is distinctive. Find a strangely cautious pedestrian clutching a map, wearing a Budweiser beer hat with black socks and sandals and toting an Instamatic, and you've found a tourist. (Springfieldians, of course, do not carry cameras.)


Like soups, sex, and the flu, tourists come in several varieties. There is the traveler who collects windshield decals the way kids collect baseball cards. You've seen them. Their vehicles—usually station wagons, favored for their large amounts of window display space—are plastered with gaudy decals commemorating past expeditions to Carlsbad Caverns and Disney World. They come to Springfield as much to say they've been here as to see the sights.


Then there are the earnest parents who drag their more sensible offspring kicking and screaming back into the 19th century because it is assumed, without proof, to be "educational." (They are usually recognized by their sour demeanors, the result of swallowing one too many doses of filial ingratitude.) This immersion in another age predictably fails to provide either moral uplift or insight; why parents continue to fall prey to it I leave it to others to guess.


Tourists, like many migratory beasts, sometimes travel in herds. Every day between May and October the school buses line up outside the Lincoln Home or the Old State Capitol, looking like carp giving birth as they disgorge school children by the hundreds on their way to some of the few places even more boring than school. Sometimes the buses bring older visitors, on tours, who, inexplicably, have consented to being bored voluntarily.


Because of the worldwide appeal of the Lincoln Legend, foreign visitors constitute a solid chunk of the local tourist trade. (It should be noted in this regard that "Bonanza" is a big hit in Caracas, and they've opened at least one McDonalds' in Paris.) A sharp-eared loiterer around the Lincoln Home, for example, can hear the phrase, "Please, where are the rest rooms?" spoken in Hindi, Spanish, and German in a single June afternoon.


So popular is Springfield with our brethren abroad that the city has established a twenty-five-member International Visitors Commission whose function it is to greet and impress those exotics whom bad luck or politics has abandoned on the shores of the Sangamon. It is a measure of the respect with which foreigners regard Mr. Lincoln that they keep coming here anyway.


Economically, of course, tourists are manna from heaven—well, if not heaven, at least Topeka and Lompoc. But, considering how important they are, Springfieldians have always been surprisingly indifferent to their needs. Former Mayor Nelson Howarth was fond of complaining that as late as 1963 the city had erected no street signs showing the way to Lincoln's home, that no public rest room was installed until 1966, that it took until 1967 to put in a drinking fountain, and that store clerks downtown were unable to give directions to the place.


No more. Local tourism officials predict a rosy future. The development—I hesitate to call it an improvement—of the immediate Lincoln Home area into a National Historic Site should boost attendance there well past the 750,000 mark—until National Park Service officials have to close it for two years to repair the damage done by 750,000 who toured it last year and the year before that and the year before that. The sound-and-light show at the Old State Capitol, that $585,000 bit of lily-gilding that opened last summer, will continue to draw tourists to the mall like moths to a porchlight. The "site interpretation" project funded by the National Endowment for the Humanities will attempt, through slides and tape, to explain what each of major sites is all about. (Still unanswered is how much interpretation a tourist can stand after 200 highway miles before breakfast while the kids were in the back seat finger-painting baby sister with a melted Mars bar.)


Why all the fuss? Perhaps Mayor Howarth put it best. "A tourist is worth 500 bushels of corn," he once explained "and is lots easier to shuck." ●




John Hallwas

Essential for anyone interested in Illinois history and literature. Hallwas deservedly won the 2018 Lifetime Achievement Award from the Illinois State Historical Society.

Lee Sandlin Author

One of Illinois’s best, and least-known, writers of his generation. Take note in particular of The Distancers and Road to Nowhere.

Chicago Architecture Center

See Home Page/Learn/

Resources for a marvelous building database, architecture dictionary, even a city planning graphic novel. Handsome, useful—every Illinois culture website should be so good.

The Encyclopedia of Chicago


The online version of The Encyclopedia of Chicago. Crammed with thousands of topic entries, biographical sketches, maps and images, it is a reference work unmatched in Illinois.

Illinois Great Places

The Illinois chapter of the American Institute of Architects in 2018 selected 200 Great Places in Illinois that illustrate our  shared architectural culture across the entire period of human settlement in Illinois.

McLean County Museum

of History

A nationally accredited, award-winning project of the McLean County Historical Society whose holdings include more than 20,000 objects, more than 15,000 books on local history and genealogy, and boxes and boxes of historical papers and images.

Mr. Lincoln, Route 66, and Other Highlights of Lincoln, Illinois


Every Illinois town ought to have a chronicler like D. Leigh Henson, Ph.D. Not only Lincoln and the Mother road—the author’s curiosity ranges from cattle baron John Dean Gillett to novelist William Maxwell. An Illinois State Historical Society "Best Web Site of the Year."

Illinois Digital Archives


Created in 2000, the IDA is a repository for the digital collections of the Illinois State Library and other Illinois libraries and cultural institutions. The holdings include photographs, slides, and glass negatives, oral histories, newspapers, maps, and documents from manuscripts and letters to postcards,  posters, and videos.

The Illinois State Museum


The people's museum is a treasure house of science and the arts. A research institution of national reputation, the museum maintains four facilities across the state. Their collections in anthropology, fine and decorative arts, botany, zoology, geology, and  history are described here. A few museum publications can be obtained here.

Chronicling Illinois

“Chronicling Illinois” showcases some of the collections—mostly some 6,000 photographs—from the Illinois history holdings of the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library.


I will leave it to the authors of this interesting site to describe it. "Chicagology is a study of Chicago history with a focus on the period prior to the Second World War. The purpose of the site is to document common and not so common stories about the City of Chicago as they are discovered." 

Illinois Labor History Society

The Illinois Labor History Society seeks to encourage the preservation and study of labor history materials of the Illinois region, and to arouse public interest in the profound significance of the past to the present. Offers books reviews, podcasts, research guides, and the like. 

Illinois Migration History 1850-2017

The University of Washington’s America’s Great Migrations Project has compiled migration histories  (mostly from the published and unpublished work by UW Professor of History James Gregory) for several states, including Illinois. The site also includes maps and charts and essays about the Great Migration of African Americans to the north, in which Illinois figured importantly. 

History on the Fox

An interesting resource about the history of one of Illinois’s more interesting places, the Fox Valley of Kendall County. History on the Fox is the work of Roger Matile, an amateur historian of the best sort. Matile’s site is a couple of cuts above the typical buff’s blog. (An entry on the French attempt to cash in on the trade in bison pelts runs more than

2,000 words.)




Southern Illinois University Press 2017

A work of solid history, entertainingly told.

Michael Burlingame,

author of Abraham 

Lincoln: A Life 

One of the ten best books on Illinois history I have read in a decade.

Superior Achievement Award citation, ISHS Awards, 2018

A lively and engaging study . . .  an enthralling narrative.

James Edstrom

The Annals of Iowa

A book that merits the attention of all Illinois historians

as well as local historians generally.

John Hoffman

Journal of Illinois HIstory

A model for the kind of detailed and honest history other states and regions could use.

Harold Henderson 

Midwestern Microhistory

A fine example of a resurgence of Midwest historical scholarship.

Greg Hall

Journal of the Illinois

State Historical Society

Click  here 

to read about

the book 

Click  here 

to buy the book 


Southern Illinois University Press

SIU Press is one of the four major university publishing houses in Illinois. Its catalog offers much of local interest, including biographies of Illinois political figures, the history (human and natural) and folklore of southern Illinois, the Civil War and Lincoln, and quality reprints in the Shawnee Classics series.

University of

Illinois Press

The U of I Press was founded in 1918. A search of the online catalog  (Books/Browse by subject/Illinois) will reveal more than 150 Illinois titles, books on history mostly but also butteflies, nature , painting, poetry and fiction, and more.  Of particular note are its Prairie State Books,  quality new paperback editions of worthy titles about all parts of Illinois, augmented with scholarly introductions.

University of

Chicago Press

The U of C publishing operation is the oldest (1891) and largest university press in Illinois. Its reach is international, but it has not neglected its own neighborhood. Any good Illinois library will include dozens of titles about Chicago and Illinois from Fort Dearborn to

Vivian Maier.

Northern Illinois University Press

The newest (1965) and the smallest of the university presses with an interest in Illinois, Northern Illinois University Press gave us important titles such as the standard one-volume history of the state (Biles' Illinois:
A History of the Land and Its People) and contributions to the history of Chicago, Illinois transportation, and the Civil War. Now an imprint of Cornell University Press.


Reviews and significant mentions by James Krohe Jr. of more than 50 Illinois books, arranged in alphabetical order

by book title. 


Illinois Center for the Book

Run by the Illinois State Library, The Center promotes reading, writing and author programs meant to honor the state's rich literary heritage. An affiliate of the Library of Congress’s Center for the Book, the site offers award competitions, a directory of Illinois authors, literary landmarks, and reading programs.

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